Kitchen Porter Importance: The Role That Runs It All


TL;DR: Kitchen bullying is a management failure, not an unavoidable consequence of high pressure, and the sous chef is the person best placed to stop it. The head chef sets the vision, but the sous chef is the consistent daily presence the brigade actually measures itself against.
There is a moment, early in a young cook’s career, when they realise the kitchen they have walked into will either make them or quietly break them. I have seen both happen. I have, I am ashamed to say, been part of both outcomes at different points in my life. The difference, almost every time, was not the head chef. It was the sous chef.
The sous chef is the engine room of any serious kitchen. Not the figurehead, not the face on the menu, but the person who actually runs the day. They set the temperature of the room, and I do not mean the oven. They decide, through every small action and reaction, whether this is a place where people grow or a place where people simply survive.
Bullying in professional kitchens is not, as some would have you believe, an unavoidable consequence of high pressure and sharp knives. It is a management failure. Full stop. And the sous chef, more than anyone else, is the person with the power to make it impossible.
Head chefs are, by necessity, slightly removed from the daily grind. They are tasting, planning, speaking to suppliers, dealing with the front of house, occasionally having a quiet moment of existential crisis behind the walk-in. The sous chef is on the floor. They are the consistent presence that the rest of the brigade actually measures themselves against.
A head chef can preach culture all they like. If the sous chef rolls their eyes during service, shouts at the commis for a misfired garnish, or laughs along when a senior cook makes a junior one feel small, none of those speeches mean anything. Culture is not what you say in briefings. It is what you permit at half past seven on a busy Friday night.
Here is something I learned the hard way: there is a fundamental difference between holding people to a high standard and making them feel worthless for not meeting it. One builds a kitchen. The other destroys people and, eventually, the kitchen along with them.
A good sous chef is relentlessly clear about what is expected. Not cruel. Clear. There is a world of difference. When a cook plates a dish badly, the response should be: “That sauce needs to be pulled tighter to the protein, like this, because it reads as messy from the pass and the guest sees that first.” Not a sigh, not a glare, not a comment designed to embarrass. A correction, delivered with the confidence of someone who actually knows what they are talking about.
Standards, when they are communicated well, become a shared language. The brigade knows what good looks like. They know why it matters. And when something falls short, the conversation is about the work, not about the person’s worth as a human being.
It is easy to talk about culture in the abstract. Less easy to describe what it looks like at six in the morning when the prep list is enormous and two of your section cooks have called in sick. So let me be practical.
There is a deeply tedious mythology around professional kitchens, the idea that suffering is proof of seriousness. That if you were not screamed at, you were not properly trained. I have heard chefs my own age say this with genuine nostalgia, as though the trauma were the point. It was not. It was just badly managed kitchens producing, among other things, a generation of chefs who thought abuse was normal.
The hardest kitchens I have worked in were not the loudest ones. They were the ones where the standard was so well understood, and so consistently upheld, that there was no room for ego or theatre. You either did the work properly or you learned to. The sous chef in those kitchens was not soft. They were precise. And that precision made everyone around them better.
I once worked under a sous chef who never, in two years, raised her voice. Not once. She was also the most technically demanding person I have ever worked for. The combination was, frankly, terrifying in the best possible way. You wanted to meet her standard not because you feared her, but because she had made the standard feel worth meeting.
No kitchen runs perfectly. Service breaks down. People make mistakes. There will be moments of genuine frustration, and pretending otherwise would be dishonest. The question is not whether tension arises. It is how the sous chef handles it when it does.
The best response to a breakdown during service is triage, not theatre. Identify the problem, fix it, move on. The debrief happens after service, calmly, when the heat has come down a little. That is the moment to unpick what went wrong and why. Not while plates are backing up at the pass and everyone is watching to see who gets the blame.
Accountability is not the same as humiliation. A sous chef who can hold their brigade accountable without resorting to public dressing-downs is worth their weight in good stock. (Which, if you have ever made a proper veal stock, you will know is considerable.)
The tone of a kitchen is set long before service. It is set in how new cooks are inducted, in whether anyone explains the systems or just expects people to absorb them by osmosis. It is set in whether the sous chef bothers to learn the names of the kitchen porters, because I promise you, the rest of the brigade is watching whether they do.
A sous chef who treats every person in that building with basic professional respect, from the most senior cook to the person scrubbing the floor at midnight, is communicating something important. They are saying: this is how we do things here. And most people, given a clear model to follow, will follow it.
The hard truth is that kitchens do not have a bullying problem because chefs are inherently cruel. They have a bullying problem because for decades, no one in the sous chef’s position made it clear that cruelty was simply not part of the standard. Once it is part of the standard, explicitly and consistently, it becomes as out of place as a garnish that nobody asked for and nobody needed. Which is to say: completely unwelcome, and removed immediately.
Chef Ian McAndrew’s specialist eBooks and guides are available directly on ChefYesChef, including his technical titles and autobiography. If you want more practical, chef-led reading beyond this article, you’ll find the full collection here.
Chef Ian McAndrew works with chefs, businesses, and individuals on a wide range of culinary projects, from concept development to practical problem-solving.
If you’d like to talk through an idea or need informed guidance, you’re welcome to contact him.
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