Writing A Menu That Actually Works: The Difference Between A Good Dish And A Workable Kitchen


There is a moment, if you have spent any real time running a kitchen, when you look at your sous chef and think, ‘They are nearly there.’ Not quite. But nearly. And what you do with that gap, the space between nearly and ready, says everything about the kind of chef you are as a leader.
I have promoted people too soon. I have also held people back too long, which is its own kind of damage. Both mistakes come from the same place: not doing the work before the conversation. The promotion should not be the beginning of someone’s development into the role. It should be the confirmation that they are already living it.
A good sous chef can cook. That is not the point. What they struggle with, almost universally, is the shift from doing to directing. From being the best pair of hands-on section to being responsible for everyone else’s hands. That is not a small shift. It is, frankly, a different job.
I remember a cook I had years ago, brilliant on the fish section, instinctive and fast, the kind of person who could sauce a plate with their eyes half-closed. Promoted them to sous chef, and within three months they were miserable, the section was miserable, and I was standing at the pass wondering what I had done wrong. What I had done wrong was skip the preparation entirely and assume talent would carry them through.
It does not. Talent is a starting point, not a destination.
The single most useful thing you can do is begin assigning them sous chef responsibilities while they still hold their current position. Not to get free labour out of them (though kitchens are not always above that, let us be honest), but because real competence only develops through real practice, with real consequences.
Put them in charge of briefing the team on a new dish. Let them run the pass on a quieter Tuesday service. Have them write the prep list for a section they do not normally work. These are not big gestures. They are deliberate, low-stakes rehearsals for the thing they are moving towards.
The key word there is ‘deliberate’. Do not just throw things at them and see what sticks. Frame each task clearly. Tell them what you are asking, why you are asking it, and that you will debrief with them afterwards. That debrief matters more than the task itself.
Most kitchen leaders, myself very much included, are better at cooking than at talking. We express care through feeding people, through a well-timed bowl of staff meal, and through the look we give someone when their sauce is exactly right. None of that is a substitute for a proper, honest conversation about where someone is headed and what they need to work on.
If your future sous chef is short-tempered under pressure, tell them. Kindly, but directly. If they struggle to delegate because they do not fully trust anyone else to do it properly (a very common failing among good cooks, by the way), name it. If their communication with the front of house is stiff or dismissive, have the conversation before it becomes their problem to solve alone, after a difficult service, when they are already rattled.
These conversations are not criticism. They are investments. The distinction matters.
There is a version of preparation that is really just protection, where you shield someone from difficulty so carefully that they arrive in the role having never been tested. That is not preparation. That is postponement.
When your future sous chef makes a call you would not have made, and the service suffers for it briefly, resist the urge to take over. Let them find the correction. Step in if it becomes a genuine crisis, of course, but a difficult fifteen minutes on a section, handled imperfectly but recovered, is worth more than any amount of theoretical coaching.
The debrief afterwards is where the learning lives. Ask them what they saw, what they decided, and what they would do differently. Listen to the answer. You will learn something about them, and they will learn something about themselves, which is rather the point.
This one sounds obvious. It is not. I have watched kitchens push talented people into seniority because it seemed like the natural next step, without anyone thinking to check whether the person in question had any particular appetite for leadership. Some brilliant cooks are brilliant cooks, and that is enough. There is nothing wrong with it.
Ask them directly. Not once, but across several conversations over time. People’s answers change as they get more honest with you and with themselves. A “yes, definitely” in January can quietly become an “I think so, but I am not sure about the management side” by March. Both answers are useful. Neither should be ignored.
Even when you have done all of this properly, even when your new sous chef walks into the role having already done much of the work, they will still have a period of adjustment. The title changes how others see them. It changes how they see themselves. There will be wobbles. Expect them. Plan for them.
Check in regularly in the first few months. Not to supervise, but to stay alongside. The relationship between a head chef and a sous chef, at its best, is one of the more sustaining things in a kitchen. It takes time and honesty to build properly, and you do not build it by handing someone a new title and stepping back.
The kitchens I have respected most, and the chefs who shaped me, never treated promotion as a finish line. They treated it as a door. Your job is to make sure the person walking through it has not just the skills for the role but also some genuine sense of what they are walking into. That is not a luxury. That is basic decency towards someone who has earned your trust.
Chef Ian McAndrew’s specialist eBooks and guides are available directly on ChefYesChef, including his technical titles and autobiography. If you want more practical, chef-led reading beyond this article, you’ll find the full collection here.
Chef Ian McAndrew works with chefs, businesses, and individuals on a wide range of culinary projects, from concept development to practical problem-solving.
If you’d like to talk through an idea or need informed guidance, you’re welcome to contact him.
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