Truss the grouse.
Roast Grouse with Oranges and Blackberries
Is there a finer game bird than Grouse? A young grouse is fantastic, but Youth is important! How do you tell if it is young? In the first few weeks of the season which begins on Aug 12th they can be judged by size but they mature quickly. Once September comes this is no longer a good guideline. The four main ways of telling young from old are: the lower beak will not hold the weight of the bird without breaking; if using only your thumb the skull can easily be crushed; the third primary feather is shorter than the others; and the first two primary feathers of a young bird are pointed – in an old bird they will be rounded. It is much harder to tell if you receive them already prepared. Be warned.
Yield: Serves 4
Method
Peel and segment the oranges. Remove the pith from the peel, cut half of the peel into a fine julienne and roughly chop the remainder.
Bring the sugar and water to the boil. Add the julienne and cook until about 2 teaspoons of liquid remain, then leave to cool.
Reserve the 20 best blackberries for garnish and purée the remainder. Rub the purée through a sieve to remove the seeds.
Season the grouse well. Heat the oil in a roasting pan and, when hot, add half the butter. Quickly sear the grouse on all sides.
Place the grouse on one leg and roast at 230°C/450°F/gas 8 for 5 minutes. Turn onto the other leg and roast for a further 5 minutes, then turn the birds onto their backs and cook for a final 5 minutes.
Remove the grouse from the pan and rest in a warm place for about 10 minutes. Remove the legs and breasts and keep warm.
Roughly chop the carcasses. Pour the fat from the pan, add the remaining butter and brown the chopped carcasses.
Pour off the fat, place the pan over a high heat, add the vinegar and reduce until evaporated.
Add the red wine and reduce by half. Add the stock, blackberry purée, roughly chopped orange peel and any juices from the grouse and oranges.
Bring to the boil and simmer for 1 minute, then pass the sauce through a fine strainer or muslin.
If the sauce is too sharp, add a little syrup from the julienne. Keep warm.
Reheat the grouse in the oven for a couple of minutes.
Arrange the reserved blackberries in neat piles at the top of each plate and place the orange segments on either side.
Place 2 legs in the centre of each plate and top with 2 breasts. Pour the sauce over and around the grouse.
Drain the julienne and place a neat pile in the centre of each grouse.